Moliss is a Piedmontese word, not Italian, meaning the ‘middle son’. This is one of the two single vineyard Barberas produced by Agostino Pavia and his sons Giuseppe (‘Pino’) and Mauro, of which total production is less than five thousand cases. Made from old vines and aged in large Slavonian oak ovals, which impart subtle oak aromas and can add texture when new, “Moliss” is stylistically similar to a traditional Asti but cleaner and much more concentrated. Importer Oliver McCrum writes: “Barbera d’Asti used to have a reputation for having acidity like that of a car battery, apparently due to high yields and an occasional lack of malolactic fermentation. These wines are different, zesty but balanced, with luscious fruit to match the acidity. I drink them with all kinds of food; the very low tannins of Barbera make it versatile. Notes: medium red color with purple glints; aroma of raspberries with a hint of herbs; palate similar to the Blina but with a broad, meaty quality from the aging in large barrels and good fresh acidity, not to mention a good persistent finish.”
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Bricco Blina’ is the name of the vineyard. This wine is a direct, straightforward rendition of the Barbera grape. Fresh acidity and berry flavors are the hallmarks of Barbera, but low yields and old vines give this wine very good depth and concentration, too. Fermentation and aging are completed in stainless steel, and the wine is bottled before the following harvest.
Deep black almandine with black rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by leather and graphite shaving bitterness. Fairly direct, in a cool vintage key. On the palate it’s ample and soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with hints of silkiness to them, but not much else. It’s not overripe, and this is a plus, but also lax, and a bit settled; it will age well for years to come.
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Rocca’s 2001 Barbaresco Coparossa shows a rich dark ruby color, along with licorice, balsam, toasted oak, and dark fruit flavors, all wrapped into a delicate, medium-bodied frame. It is the more feminine of the two Barbaresco selections and is produced from vineyards in Neive and Treiso.
|ColourLight ruby red Nose fresh and fruity withlight spices Taste typical, pleasantly cool|
|vitello tonnato, peppers in “bagna cauda, salami and “insalata russa”|
“Moderate garnet hue. Complex bouquet of wet stone, forest floor and pine needle. Juicy entry of black cherry and heady briary components, evolving to forest floor and resin flavors. Long, tart, drying finish delivers dried berry and dried leaf notes. Lovely complexity.”
The Wine News
“An elegant and intense version, featuring licorice, tobacco, spice and earth flavors fusing with burly tannins. Offers a compact feel and a tightly wound finish, with a sweet and spicy aftertaste. Best from 2016 through 2035. 5,400 cases made.”
The Wine Advocate
Rating: 93 (4/1/2012)
The 2008 Barolo is loaded with finesse and grace. Dark red cherries, flowers, spices, mint and minerals are some of the nuances that flow from this beautifully delineated, gorgeous Barolo. Floral notes reappear to frame the sublime finish. Altare’s straight Barolo doesn’t get as much recognition as some of his other wines, but it is once again fabulous in 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028.
This wine is in our cellar. Very Rare.
“Full, bright, deep red. Superripe aromas of strawberry, tobacco and cedary oak; smells considerably deeper than the ’98 Arborina. Then lush, layered and perfumed in the mouth; a very silky wine with a solid underlying backbone. Complicating note of tobacco. Finishes with serious but thoroughly ripe tannins and excellent persistence.” Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar
(IWC, 11/01/2002) Rating: 94 points
“Offers forest fruit, with cream and pie crust on the nose. Full-bodied, with chewy, slight new wood tannins that lead to a rich and fruity finish. Layered and powerful for the vintage. Needs a little more time to come together.—’99 Piedmont blind retrospective (2009). Best after 2011. 500 cases made.” Wine Spectator
(WS, 01/01/2009) Rating: 93 points
An attractive wine with a little more fleshiness than is often the case. Beautiful and drinkable Dolcetto for every day.